Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux 2019

Wine Advocate Parker:

The 2019 Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru is more reserved than the Échézeaux, even if it's far from forbidding. Mingling aromas of blackberries and raspberries with notions of exotic spices, orange rind, smoked duck and forest floor, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with broad structural shoulders supplied by ripe, powdery tannins. Layered and muscular, it's remarkably seamless and integrated at this early stage, concluding with a long, sapid finish. This was a particularly memorable tasting at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Revisiting the bottled 2019s was thrilling, as these are some of the most sensual, dramatic young wines I've ever tasted at this address; and the young 2020s, tasted from barrel (with the exception of several cuvées that had been recently racked), show immense potential too. A few small evolutions have been made in the cellars in the last few years, with Tonnellerie La Grange increasingly in evidence alongside historically dominant François Frères on the red side of the ledger, and barrels from Séguin Morey, Damy and Taransaud to be found in the new room devoted to the domaine's white wines. Bottling is also a touch earlier than in the past.

Decanter:

Bertrand de Villaine, co-manager of the domaine, has often evoked the savoury nature of the Grands Echézeaux produced from their 3.53-hectare plot down-slope from their Echézeaux. To my palate it showed more of an influence from the whole clusters – a freshness and a slightly rustic hint of menthol and earth, but he assures me that the use of whole bunches is consistent across the board. Perhaps the wine is closing down slightly – it shows less of the lush dark fruit than it did out of barrel, although the length and complexity are a testament to the quality of the wine. Drinking Window 2025 - 2065.

Vinous:

The 2019 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, matured with 75% whole bunch, is another step up from the Echézeaux. It was the first to finish its malolactic, and it is endowed with intense black fruit, shaved black truffle, freshly rolled tobacco and just a hint of hoisin, all displaying wonderful definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. A "vertical" Grands Echézeaux, it offers almost piercing penetration, live-wire acidity and a very poised finish that, dare I say, reminded me of the Grands Echézeaux from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. This is very classy and it should evolve into quite a profound wine. Just four barrels produced instead of the usual six.